It might not eat for a number of reasons. It won’t eat if kept too cold. It won’t eat if it is approaching a molt. It won’t eat if it has a fungal infection or is otherwise sick. Lastly, if it’s too stuffed, it might push the plate away.

Your tarantula is about to molt, or shed its skin. Remove all uneaten prey items, and lightly mist the substrate. DO NOT attempt to move the spider or flip it over in any way. This will cause injury to the animal. Wait a few days for babies and a week or more for adults before offering food again. Drinking water should be plentiful.

If it is in a heap with its legs curled underneath it, then yes. If it is on its back, see the question regarding molting.

I generally keep my tarantulas between 76-82 F. Some rainforest species can tolerate a bit higher, and some desert dwellers are okay with it a little cooler, but 76-82 is a safe range.

It all depends on size and species. Most babies should be fed twice a week, with T. blondi, V. plattyoma, and other birdeaters being fed three times a week as babies. Juveniles can be offered food twice a week, and adults once a week. Feed only as much as the tarantula will eat in a sitting, so there’s no excess food within the habitat. Also, remember that a half-inch (.5 inch) B. smithi can handle nothing larger than a five day old cricket, and giving an adult T.blondi anything smaller than an adult cricket is ridiculous. Use common sense.

This depends on the region the tarantula is from. If it’s from a relatively dry region, like the Mexican Blonde, then humidity of 50% will do the trick. If it’s from a moderate humidity range, like the Costa Rican Tiger Rump, 65% is fine. If it’s from the rainforest, like T. blondi, and Avic. Avic, 80% or more is required or the spider may die from dehydration. Water dishes are also important for all tarantulas.

Some of the best choices are B.smithi, B.albopilosum, A.chalcodes, and G. rosea. Avic avic usually makes a safe, gentle, if active pet. Asian, African, and the birdeating tarantulas should be displayed animals only. E.camperstratus and G. aureostriata are personal favorites.

No one has ever died from a tarantula bite. The wound will be painful and should be cleaned with alcohol or peroxide. Depending on what species bit you, you may have little or no reaction, ranging from localized pain, swelling, and numbness. If bitten by a Baboon or Ornamental, muscle cramps, joint pains, and paralysis of entire limbs are possible. These symptoms can subside in days or can last for weeks. If you are allergic to bee venom, you should seek medical help quickly. Practice safe handling and care techniques.

Use Benadryl cream. Try not to scratch the area with the hairs as you will only make it worse. If you scratch you will get the hairs imbedded in your fingers and will transfer them to other body parts. Sometimes taking a really hot shower will also help.

Usually only one. Tarantulas are territorial animals, and will fight over territory. Also, smaller or weaker tarantulas are gobbled up by larger, stronger ones. Some keepers have had success keeping Pink-Toes together, but this is at your own discretion.

nside the same cage? No, not under any circumstances, unless you want one really fat animal and one very missing animal. One will get eaten!

They are mites (scavenger mites) and multiply like bunnies. When they run out of food, sometimes they turn on the tarantula and get inside its mouth, joints, or book lungs. So if you don’t want to see your prized King Baboon to be ravaged by these little demons, keep a clean spider cage. Remove all dead or uneaten remains and clean up the spider’s feces immediately. If a large quantity of mites is present, change the substrate.

Most often, adult imported tarantulas are females, because collectors know females will fetch the best prices. On juveniles or sub-adults, it is possible to ascertain sex via opening up a freshly molted spider skin and looking for the epigastric furrow and the spermatheca. The old saying that “unless it has hooks it’s a female” is as ignorant as it is crooked. Only upon sexual maturity will the male tarantula receive his tibial spurs/hooks and his palpal bulbs. In addition, males of Theraposa, Poecliotheria, and Hysterocrates will get only palpal bulbs. They never generate hooks/spurs.

Well, first you dim the lights, put on some Al Green, and break out the bourbon. Oh wait, we’re talking about tarantulas. The first step is to have both a sexually mature male and female. Very important! If the male isn’t mature, he might be eaten. Secondly, the female must not be approaching a molt, or your efforts will be squandered as she sheds the sperm. Thirdly, it is best to attempt breeding at night, as it normally happens in the wild. Fourthly, place the male inside the female’s cage. I prefer this method because it’s what happens in the wild. Just make sure the little bugger can book out if your gal decides to make war, not love. Fifthly, upon completion of mating, the female usually chases the male off. If the male cannot get away, he might get eaten. If you want to ensure his safety, place a cup over the female to restrain her. Continue mating once every week. This way, the female will be most likely impregnated. Lastly, if all went well, you’ll find your female with an eggsac 2-6 months following breeding.

You can either leave the sac with the female and let her incubate it (be warned that she might eat it if disturbed too much) or take it from her and incubate it artificially, similar to incubation of reptile eggs. In three months, you might be lucky enough to get babies!

We try to be as competitive as possible with regards to price. If we can match a price, we will, and even beat it. Prices will only be matched against current pricelists of legitimate web presences. Casual hobby sellers do not fit this treatment. The guy from South Dakota selling a T psychedelicus for $79 on arachnoboards doesn’t count.

Yes we do, we welcome them. I’ve bred tarantulas since 2000, my first being Psalmopoeus irminia. Few things raise my blood pressure faster than the excitement of a new eggsack. If you wish to loan your male to me, know I have every inkling and desire to mate it. However, spiders are like humans and sometimes Rob and Trish are perfect for each other, while Bradford and Kat hate each other, and things go sideways quickly. I will attempt to protect your male, but remember there are risks, and by sending a male to Krazy 8’s Invertebrates, you hold us harmless for any unpleasantness. However, you are obligated to any success, 50/50, and you will get it. You have my word.

It’s a fair and pertinent question. You can buy from anyone and price is suggestive, but why not buy from someone who actually breeds the spiders (many say they do, but few do).